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Field guide8 Curing Problems: How to Diagnose, Fix, and Prevent Them
Ingredient

Allspice

Also known as Pimenta dioica, pimento, Jamaica pepper, myrtle pepper, Piment, ziele angielskie, pimienta de Jamaica

One berry, not a blend. Allspice is the dried unripe fruit of a single Caribbean tree, and it tastes of clove, nutmeg and cinnamon because it shares their aroma chemistry, not because anybody mixed them.

The name misleads, and it misleads consistently enough to be worth correcting first. Allspice is not a spice blend. It is the dried unripe berry of Pimenta dioica, a myrtle native to Jamaica and the surrounding region, and the reason it tastes like clove, nutmeg and cinnamon together is that it shares their principal aromatic compound. Allspice is dominated by eugenol, the same phenol that carries clove, with supporting notes that read as nutmeg and pepper. Sixteenth-century Spanish traders thought the berries were a form of pepper and called them pimienta, which is why half of Europe still calls the spice pimento and why it is regularly confused with paprika and with the Spanish pimentón.

In charcuterie it belongs above all to the north and east. Polish sausage work uses it constantly, under the name ziele angielskie, English herb, and it is a standard partner to marjoram, garlic and black pepper in the kiełbasa tradition. German and Scandinavian sausages use it, it runs through the Baltic and Russian formulas, and it appears in British pork pies, brawns and potted meats. In the Caribbean it is foundational to jerk seasoning. It is rare in Italian and Spanish dry-cured work.

What it does in a mix is bridge. Because its aroma overlaps clove, nutmeg and pepper, a small quantity of allspice gives a spice blend depth without introducing a note the palate can isolate and name. That is its usefulness and also its danger: it hides in a formula until there is slightly too much, at which point the whole sausage tastes medicinal in the way an overclove-ed ham does. Eugenol is the culprit in both cases.

Whole berries and ground allspice behave differently in practice. The berry is hard and holds its aroma well, so whole allspice keeps for a long time and is the right form for a brine, a stock or a simmered brawn where it can be fished out. Ground allspice fades in months and is the form for a mixed farce. Where a traditional formula specifies whole berries in a wet cure, grinding them instead will over-extract and unbalance the result.

Quantities in sausage work usually sit between 0.3 and 1.5 g per kilo of meat, with the Polish formulas at the generous end. Like clove, it is a spice where the difference between right and too much is a fraction of a gram.

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