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Field guide8 Curing Problems: How to Diagnose, Fix, and Prevent Them
Ingredient

Caraway

Also known as Carum carvi, Kümmel, kmin, kminek, carvi, alcaravea, meridian fennel

The rye-bread spice, and a fixture of the German, Austrian and central European sausage traditions. Routinely confused with cumin in translation, and it does not taste remotely like it.

Caraway is the seed of Carum carvi, another umbellifer, and its flavour is dominated by carvone, which gives the sharp, clean, slightly aniseed and distinctly rye-bread character that anyone who has eaten central European food will recognise instantly. It is nothing like cumin, and the two are confused only because of an accident of naming: German calls caraway Kümmel and cumin Kreuzkümmel, and several Slavic and Nordic languages have similarly close pairs. A translated recipe that yields a strange result has very often crossed these two.

In charcuterie it belongs to the German-speaking and central European world. It runs through the Austrian and Bavarian sausages, the Hungarian and Czech traditions, the Polish work, and the Scandinavian and Baltic products. It is a standard partner to marjoram and garlic, and it turns up in brawns, liver sausages, blood sausages and the fatty pork preparations where its sharpness cuts richness. It is also the traditional seasoning for the fat and offal products, for the same reason.

What it does technically is cut. Carvone reads as clean and slightly cooling, which is exactly what a heavy, fatty, salty sausage needs to stop being cloying, and it is why caraway survives in traditions built on pork fat and cabbage. It has a further reputation as a carminative, which is the folk justification for putting it in rich food, and while the digestive claim is not something to assert as fact, it is certainly why the tradition put it there.

Whole and ground behave differently and both are used deliberately. Whole seed gives an intermittent burst when bitten, which is the traditional effect in a coarse sausage or a brawn, and it survives cooking well. Ground caraway distributes the flavour evenly and much more assertively; a formula that specifies whole seed and receives ground will taste over-spiced at the same weight. Toasting lightly improves both.

Doses commonly run 0.5 to 3 g per kilo of meat, at the higher end in the Austrian and Hungarian formulas. It divides opinion more than almost any other charcuterie spice, so a recipe that seems heavy on it is usually being faithful to a tradition rather than making an error.

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