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Field guide8 Curing Problems: How to Diagnose, Fix, and Prevent Them
Technique

Cooked Charcuterie

Also known as cooked meats, terrines and pates

The family of charcuterie that is cooked rather than air-dried, including terrines, pâtés, cooked hams, mortadella and cooked sausages. Safety comes from heat and cold storage rather than from drying to shelf stability.

Not all charcuterie is dried. A whole family of it is cooked: terrines and pâtés, cooked and boiled hams, mortadella, and cooked sausages from frankfurters to boudin. These are a different discipline from the dry cures, and it is worth being clear about how their safety works.

In a dry cure, safety is built by lowering water activity and pH until pathogens cannot grow. In cooked charcuterie, safety comes instead from heat: cooking to a temperature that kills the pathogens, then cooling quickly and keeping the product cold. These are not usually shelf stable; they live in the fridge and have a limited life.

That changes the hazards to watch. Cooling is the critical moment, because spores that survive cooking, such as those of Clostridium perfringens, will multiply if the product cools too slowly. And because cooking is the kill step, contamination after cooking, as with Listeria on a sliced cooked ham, becomes the main worry. Cooked charcuterie is a full craft in its own right, governed by heat and the cold chain rather than by the Safety Triangle of drying.

Related in the Codex