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Field guide8 Curing Problems: How to Diagnose, Fix, and Prevent Them
Organism

Parasites

The animal parasites carried alive in the muscle of infected meat, chiefly Trichinella, Toxoplasma and the meat tapeworms, which curing must kill rather than merely hold. Unlike bacteria and moulds they do not grow in the product, so control rests on the raw material and on the killing steps, never on the look of the meat.

Parasites are among the oldest hazards of raw and cured meat, and they behave differently from bacteria and moulds. A pathogenic bacterium can multiply in a product and a toxigenic mould can colonise a rind, but a meat parasite does neither. It is already present, alive, in the muscle of the animal the meat came from, and it does not grow further in the product. It cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so the question is not whether it will grow but whether the process kills what is already there. Three matter most to the curesmith. Trichinella is a nematode, a roundworm, associated with pork and wild game, whose larvae encyst in muscle. Toxoplasma gondii is a protozoan, associated with pork, lamb and game, whose tissue cysts do the same. The tapeworms of the genus Taenia are a third, carried as larval cysts in the muscle of pork and beef. Each has its own article.

Because much cured pork is eaten without cooking, these are a specific concern of the craft rather than a problem solved in the kitchen. The hazard enters on the raw material, in the muscle of an infected animal, and the defences are sourcing and the killing steps built into the process: cooking, freezing to a defined schedule, and the salt and time of the cure.

**How it endangers cured meat.** They are carried in on the raw material and remain in the muscle of a product that is eaten raw. They respond differently to a cure, which is the key point. Cooking and freezing to a defined schedule inactivate all three. Salt-curing inactivates Toxoplasma readily and early, but Trichinella and the Taenia tapeworms are more resistant, and Trichinella in particular has historically required a validated cure-and-dry schedule, which is why regulators once required every dry-cured pork process to be validated against it and set the treatment in law. A short or mild cure is the danger, because it can leave a live parasite in a product that will not be cooked.

Related in the Codex